Himalaya 2010: Summits on Cho Oyu, Push Begins on Everest, Makalu

While teams on Everest prepare for another weather window, activity in other parts of the Himalaya continues as well. As we approach the final days of May, the end is in sight for many climbers who have been tightly focused on these last days for months, if not years.

The projected summit day on Everest is now set for Saturday, May 22nd. The weather window looks perfect for another round of summits on that day, although bad weather is in the forecast for after that. As a result, most teams have moved up to Camp 2 on the South Side of the mountain, which puts them on schedule to take advantage of the expected calm weather ahead. Himex, Alpine Ascents, Altitude Junkies, and the Peak Freaks all have climbers in position.

On the North Side of the mountain, there is a similar level of activity and an anticipation of the same weather window. Climbers have moved up to ABC, and are eying this weekend to make their bids as well, which means we're likely to see traffic jams on both sides of the mountain.

All the teams are keeping an eye on the monsoon as well, which according to Alan Arnette is brew up in India at the moment. According to his latest update, feeder bands for cyclone Laila have already begun to work their way into Nepal, which could signal a quick end to the season. But as Alan also points out, it isn't time to panic just yet, but the teams will have to move with a sense of urgency over the next few days.

Elsewhere in the region, ExWeb is reporting that an IMG Team has reached the summit on Cho Oyu this past Monday amidst very cold temperatures. Reportedly it was a rough summit, with a lot of exposed rock above the Yellow Band, which made for tough going for all the climbers. They all made it up and down safely however, and were back in Camp 1 before the weather took a turn for the worse.

In that same article, ExWeb notes that summit bids are about to get underway on Makalu, where teams missed out on the first weather window due to conflicting reports. They aim to take advantage of the new one that hits the region at the end of this week, with teams planning on topping out on Saturday as well.

As is common this time of year, the news is almost always about the weather. Lets hope that there are no major shifts in that department over the next few days, as that will allow these climbers to reach their respective summits before the monsoon hits. Something that looks like could happen sooner rather than later. Busy week ahead.

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Himalaya 2010: Rescue on Makalu

While much of the attention this week has been on Everest, where teams are preparing to make their summit bids next week, there are ongoing expeditions on other mountains in the area that are equally as challenging and dangerous.

Take for example Makalu, the fifth highest mountain in the world at 27,838 feet. For weeks now, the Shared Summits Team has been working the mountain, doing the usual acclimatization drills, and preparing to make their attempt on the summit, just like on any of the other major Himalayan peaks. They've also been sending back regular dispatches of their progress, keeping those of us following along at home updated on how things were going.

A week ago two members of the team, Chris Warner and Marty Schmidt decide to take advantage of a weather window and targeted May 6th for their summit bid, setting out from BC on the 1st. Unfortunately, that weather window didn't remain open as they had planned, as high winds and heavy snow conspired to keep them from reaching the top of the mountain. That weather ended up trapping Chris and Marty in Camp 2 for a day and half, and during that time Warner took ill with what was feared to be either pneumonia or possibly pulmonary embolism, either of which can be deadly at high altitudes.

With that in mind, and with a little help from a nearby British team, the two climbers made their way back down the mountain to base camp, arriving there last night. With Chris' condition continuing to deteriorate, a helicopter was dispatched to BC todday and the climber was evacuated from the mountain and taken him directly to Kathmandu for treatment. He is reportedly in good condition, and is already improving, with the drop in elevation aiding in that process no doubt. Hopefully the recovery process will continue along and Chris will be back up to strength soon.

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Himalaya 2010: Action on Annapurna, Push Set To Begin on Shisha

The calendar has flipped to May, which can mean only one thing in the Himalaya –summits ahead!

We'll start on Annapurna, where plenty of climbers topped out last week, including Miss Oh Eun-Sun, the first woman to summit all 14 8000-meter peaks. Tragically, climber Tolo Calafat perished during that same summit push, succumbing to altitude sickness while making his descent. As ExWeb notes, this makes it seven straight years with at least one casualty on the mountain, which has more than earned its reputation as one of the toughest of the 14 to summit successfully.

Still, not everyone is done with Annapurna for the season. ExWeb is also reporting that Korean climber Park Young-Seok, who has summitted all 14 of the big peaks as well, is planning a new route up the South Face along a variation of the Bonnington route. The team hopes to have all their prep and scouting work done in time for a mid-May summit bid.

Moving over to the 26,289 foot Shisha Pangma, it seems teams are preparing to make summit bids this week. Included amongst them is Edurne Pasaban, who is successful, will join Miss Oh as the only women to claim all of the 8-thousanders. Reportedly, she was considering a light and fast alpine ascent, having already acclimatized on Annapurna, to go after the record for herself, but with Miss Oh claiming the crowd, she'll know take a more traditional approach to the climb, possibly joining one of the other teams already on the mountain. Watch for word on Shisha summits in the next few days, and another woman officially joining the boy's club of 8000 meter climbers.

Over on Makalu, teams have fixed ropes and established camps as high as C2 at the moment, and there had been plans to go higher over the weekend, but high winds and cold weather prevented that from happening. Most teams are now looking at a mid-week window for climbing up to Makalu-La at 7400 meters. Once that has been accomplished, they'll return to BC before making the final prep for their summit bids.

Finally, we can't leave out Everest itself. Alan Arnette is reporting that snow hit the Big Hill over the weekend, dumping six inches of the white stuff, and prompting teams to stay put in their tents today. Most are eying tomorrow for their next go up the mountain, with some planning on heading up to Camp 3 for their acclimatization rotation.

This is all pretty much standard fare for this point of the season. Up and down the mountain, acclimatize, wait for a weather window, repeat. We're still a couple of weeks out from any real attempts on the Everest summit, but it won't be long now, weather permitting.

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Himalaya Fall 2009: Details From Andrew and Ueli

Two of the big name climbers in the Himalaya this fall have posted updates to their websites filling us in on the details of their climbs. Both reached the summit of their respective 8000 meter peaks after some struggles along the way.

First up, Andrew Lock has updated his blog with the details on his summit of Shisha Pangma, which happened to be his 14th, and final, 8000 meter mountain. His tale is a good one, and well worth the read, as he lets us in on the scary nature of climbing up to the true summit amidst weather that was getting worse by the minute, and than played havoc with the descent. Harrowing stuff!

The other update comes from Ueli Steck, who is now home, safe and sound, after his climb on Makalu. Ueli had intended to make a solo, alpine style ascent along the West Pillar, but ended up going after the normal route and claiming a successful summit along the way. Ueli is back in Switzerland now, and starting to return to the routine of his normal life, but is also dealing with frostbite and exhaustion. He says that he has never been tested by a mountain like this one before, and that it was only through his strength of will that he actually stood on top. More good stuff.

While these two amazing climbers are safely down and sharing thoughts on their climbs, others are still preparing to make summit bids as the weather begins to shift in the region. ExWeb is reporting all of the weekend plans for teams looking to get into position for early next week, including Edurne Pasaban who is still hoping to become the first woman to join the list of the 8000 meter club.

ExWeb is also reporting that there is no change in status at this time for teams on Annapurna or Everest. On the former, Miss Oh is hoping to get another crack at the summit as well, so she can stake her claim at 8000 meter history, while on Everest, the Basque team is hoping at another shot at the Hornbein Couloir.

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Himalaya Fall 2009: More Summits, Death on Cho Oyu

It was another busy weekend in the Himalaya with successful summits, changes in the weather, and the sad news of a death on Cho Oyu.

I'll start there today, as the news broke over the weekend that Clifton Maloney, the husband of U.S. Congresswoman Carolyn Maloney, died on Cho Oyu after achieving a successful summit. At the age of 71, he claimed the title as the oldest to summit that mountain, but died in his sleep back at C3 after telling one of his teammates "I am the happiest man in the world. I just climbed a beautiful mountain". Maloney was an avid climber, sailer, and runner, having competed in the New York City Marathon on no less than 20 occasions. This is the first death of the season in the Himalaya, and I send my condolences to the family.

In other news on Cho Oyu, the North Face Trilogy team that had been planning to scale the mountain and then run/mountain bike back to Kathmandu, are in the process of altering those plans thanks to the Chinese closing the Tibetan borders once again. According to their latest blog posts, they'll now consider a different peak in the region, since they won't have access to Cho Oyu until after October 8th, and they won't have the time to finish their project.

We also received an update on Ueli Steck over the weekend with the news that he reached the summit of Makalu late last week. He had been planning on making a solo, alpine style attempt on the West Pillar, but if you read his dispatches, you could tell how difficult that climb was going to be, so rather than go home empty handed, he topped out along the normal route while he was in the neighborhood.

IMG and Jagged Globe both put teams on the summit of Cho Oyu late last week and have posted photos and updates on the their teams as well, all of which are often the mountain and safe and are already en route back to Kathmandu for the journey hope. Congrats to everyone!

Summit bids are underway on Shisha Pangma, where Andrew Lock has updated his blog this morning with news that he is "Going For It". He and his team have spent a night at C2 and the camps are well stocked up to that point, and he now believes that they'll top out on Friday or Saturday of this week. They'll be taking an alternate route to the summit that is long and challenging, but should avoid the treacherous cornices and snow that turned back another team yesterday.

Teams have been very busy on Manaslu the past few days as well, and the Altitude Junkies were successful in putting three climbers high on the mountain, but the did not reach the true summit itself, coming up about 15 vertical meters short. It seems that the ropes were not fixed all the way to the summit, and left them just short of the top. They elected to not attempt to go further for safety reasons. Meanwhile, according to Alpenglow Expeditions, climbing with Himex, the team should reach the top today and upon doing so, descend back to C2. Hopefully all has gone well for them this morning.

Finally, ExWeb has an update on the Basque team on Everest. The team was making a summit bid up the Hornbein Couloir, but are now back in ABC after a very scary night 7200 meters in which they survived no one, but two avalanches. The first hit them while they were in the tent, and buried it. Deciding that discretion was the better part of valor, they elected to head down the mountain, but were hit by a second avalanche that covered them in snow. They ended up spending the night under a rocky outcropping before making a long, slow treacherous descent the next day. No word as of yet if they'll have another go at it.

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Himalaya Fall 2009: It's Go Time!

The Fall Himalaya season seems to be rapidly heating up as summit bids are now underway on a variety of mountains across the region. The acclimatization process is finished, the lines are fixed, and the high camps are stocked. Looks like it's go time!

On Everest, the Basque team of Alberto Iñurrategi, Mikel Zabalza and Juan Vallejo will begin their assault on the Hornbein Couloir tomorrow, with an eye on reaching the summit on Sunday morning, according to the latest update from ExWeb. The current plan is to survey the route tomorrow and if everything goes as planned, begin their alpine style ascent, which as ExWeb points out, has only been accomplished once before.

Jumping over to Makalu, we finally get an update from Ueli Steck, who is taking on the West Pillar solo and in alpine style. Ueli has had some set backs in that climb, and he is currently in BC, hoping for better conditions on the mountain, and knowing that he has just three weeks to make a go at it. If you read his very personal account of his attempt to go up the mountain, you'll get a sense of the frustration he is currently feeling at not being able to climb as quickly and safely as he'd like. He's even considered giving up and going home, which is so unlike the indomitable spirit we usually see out of him. It's a bit sobering considering how strong a climber Ueli is, but it also says a lot about the conditions and challenges of this route on this mountain. Definitely a good read.

Meanwhile, the Chilean Ski Expedition is hoping to begin their summit bid on Manaslu tomorrow. They hope to top out on Sunday as well, and will then make the descent back down the mountain on their skis. On that same mountain, the Altitude Junkies should be in the middle of their summit bid right now, and should be hopefully reaching the summit this weekend as well. The Himex Team is apparently progressing with their acclimatization, and have already spent two nights at at 6300 meters, and are eyeing their bid, weather permitting, in the next week and a half.

Andrew Lock checks in once again from Shisha Pangma where he reports great conditions. He has now climbed up to Camp 1, but described the route as slow and treacherous at this point. It took him and his climbing partner, Kinga Baranowska, seven hours to make the trip up to 6250 meters. That climb was made several days ago, and today he and Kinga are back up to C1 to spend the night, before moving on to Camp 2 tomorrow. For Andrew, this is his 14th 8000 meter peak, so obviously he's keen on using the great weather to his advantage and finishing off the last of the big mountains.

The North Face Cho Oyu Triology Team continues to make their way to that mountain, and are posting regular updates to their blog. Yesterday we were treated to some great photos from the area on the team's blog and the video posted below was put up today. It shows climber Simone Moro in Chhukung village discussing his previous experiences in the Himalaya, of which he has had many.

Also on Cho Oyu, the IMG blog is reporting that their team is now in the middle of their final push to the summit, and updates later today should clue us in on their success. It looks like they should be standing on top very soon.

FInally, the Field Touring Alpine Team has updated their blog to let us know that the entire team is now back in BC on Satopanth after successfully putting several climbers on the summit of that peak located in the Hindu Kush of India. Well done team, and glad you're all safe!

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Himalaya Fall 2009: Climbers Making Progress

More news from the HImalaya, where the weather seems to have improved in general, and the teams are going to work, full steam ahead.

Starting off on Makalu, Ueli has updated us on his progress, and from the sound of things, this is not going to be an easy climb, even for a guy who makes climbing look easy! Over the weekend Ueli made an ascent up to 6700m to take a look at the challenge ahead, as he is planning a solo, alpine style ascent of the West Pillar. What he describes is a very difficult path ahead, and it was enough to make him consider packing up and going home. A good night's rest back in BC helped him recover, but if Ueli was seriously reconsidering, it should say something about the difficulty of this climb. If anyone can do it however, it's probably him.

Progress is continuing on Manaslu according to schedule, with the Altitude Junkies reporting that the entire team has now gone up to Camp 1, with a few going even higher to explore the route to C2, which the Sherpas have finished setting the ropes to. Great weather has made is possible for the acclimatization process to truly get underway, and the team is taking advantage of the window while they can.

Speaking of Manaslu, it seems that it is a popular ski destination this Fall, with two teams, one from Chile, the other from the U.K., both planning on making a ski descent. I know that mountaineering on a big peak like this is inherently challenging, but skiing down one seems even crazier! Fun, but crazy! :)

ExWeb has a host of updates from the region as well, including the news that the Korean team has arrived in BC on Annapurna, where they've already started to go to work. They will be joined next week by Oh Eun-Sun, the climber who will claim the distinction of being the first woman to summit all 8000m peaks if she successfully reaches the summit.

The word from Shisha Pangma is that Carlos Pauner and Javier Perez have departed BC for Kathmandu. Carlos slipped and fell this past weekend while shuttling supplies up to C2, and broke a rib, which has made it painful for him to even breathe. He and his team thought it was best if he returned home to heal rather than try to spend much more time on the mountain.

The Basque Team continues to work the route on Everest's North Side as well, although we haven't heard a lot out of them so far. So far they've spent two nights above 6500 meters on the normal route, and they'll go as high as 7500m while the scout the Hornbein Couloir and complete their acclimatization. Once they are finished with that, they'll begin their real climb, which is up the Couloir itself.

Finally, hopping over to India, the Field Touring Alpine Team is in the midst of their summit bid on Satopanth. The team climbed up to C1 yesterday and are expected to be shuttling gear to C2 today. They'll "climb high and sleep low" however, by returning back to C1 for the evening. If all goes according to plan, they hope to top out around the 21st of the month. Good luck team!

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Himalaya Fall 2009: Let it Snow!

The reports coming in from the Himalaya all report the same thing, snow! And plenty of it. Teams are sitting in base camps throughout the region, while plenty of snow is already building up, especially at altitude. We'll just have to wait to see if that has a major impact further into the season when summit bids begin.

These are exactly the same thoughts that Ueli Steck is having in his latest dispatch, where he is reporting that he and the other climbers on Makalu are stuck in BC, where he reports that it is never comfortable, with temperatures that are either too hot or too cold. His weather forecasts give him reason for hope however, as the conditions should improve through the weekend, with clear, sunny skies reported for next week. Perhaps then he can get started on his solo, alpine style ascent of the West Pillar.

Meanwhile, Andre Lock has updated us on his plans, as he makes his way to base camp on Shisha Pangma. He was in Kathmandu a few days back, but already planning his journey into Tibet, and hopes to reach the mountain by Sept. 16. Andrew has been dreaming of this climb for some time, and it was delayed last year thanks to China closing off the Tibetan borders, but he's back on track now, and hoping to have a successful climb. If he does, this will be his 14th, and final, 8000 meter peak. Good luck Andrew!!

The Altitude Junkies are en route to Manaslu, and are currently acclimatizing in Sama Goan, the last village before they reach BC. They report wet, and very muddy, conditions on the trek in, but the team is said to be doing well, and enjoying their last break before they begin their climb. The mountain has remained a mystery thus far however, as due to the cloud cover, they haven't even seen it yet.

Over on Cho Oyu things are progressing nicely, as the IMG Team reports weather conditions have improved there, and they are progressing up to Camp 1 today. A similar report comes in from the Jagged Globe crew, who have gone up as high as 6000 meters already, as they plan their acclimatization process out. Likewise, Emily, reporting for Alpenglow Expeditions from Manaslu, says that the sun is finally shining there as well.

Finally, the Field Touring Alpine team checks in from India, where they are still making their way to base camp, amidst snowy conditions. The audio dispatches from the team have begun, and they note that they hope to be on Satopanth tomorrow.

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Himalaya Fall 2009: Base Camp Arrivals

The weekend brought more news from the Himalaya, although most of it had more to do with the arrival of teams in base camps on various mountains throughout the range, as the climbers scramble to get into place, and begin the process of actually climbing those peaks.

On Everest, the ExWeb is reporting that the Basque team moved into BC on the North Side in just three short days. Normally, the drive (yes, drive!) to base camp on the Tibetan side of the mountain takes some time, giving the climbers a chance to acclimatize to a degree, before they ever get there. But the three men, Alberto Iñurrategi, Mikel Zabalza and Juan Vallejo, have been preparing for their ascent by using hyperbaric chambers, which seems to have them well ahead of schedule in the acclimatization process.

Over on Makalu, Ueli has updated his blog, as he prepares for his solo attempt on the West Pillar in alpine style. He reports bad weather at the moment, with plenty of snow and fog, but he did have the opportunity to scout his intended route and acclimatize some himself over the weekend. For now though, he, and everyone on Makalu, wait for the weather to change.

Himex is leading a team on Manaslu, and climber Julian Haszard is posting dispatches on the climb. They're also in base camp and beginning to acclimatize as well. Julian, who summetted Everest back in 2004, says that he'll also use the time to get back to expedition style of living. He also notes that he has very different motivations for climbing Manaslu than he did when approaching Everest. This time, it's more about the adventure and less about reaching the highest place on the planet.

ExWeb is reporting that the Chilean team on Manaslu has made their first gear drop in BC and are now back in the village of Samagaon. They report wet conditions on the trek and the mountain itself, as it seems that the monsoon hasn't quite given up its hold on the region just yet.

Finally, the Field Touring Alpine team is in India, and should be arriving in base camp on Satopanth soon if they haven't done so already. On Saturday they began the three day trek into the 7075 meter mountain, where they will soon begin audio dispatches of their expedition.

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Himalaya Fall 2009: Ueli's in Base Camp

There is more evidence today that things are starting to heat up in the Himalaya, as more teams are reportedly hitting Kathmandu, while others are in now en route to their mountain of choice, as the Fall Season gets well underway.

First up, the Hardwear Sessions blog has a report from Ueli Steck, who has now arrived in the Makalu Base Camp, which is located at 5250 meters (17,224 feet) on the mountain. The monsoon is said to still be in full effect, and dumping plenty of moisture on the region, which has made the ten day trek to BC all the more difficult. But Ueli seems in good spirits, as are his companions Robert Bösch and Andy Wälchli, who will be climbing along the typical route to the summit, while Ueli will be making a solo, alpine style ascent on the West Pillar. Once the rains stop, the work can begin.

The Altitude Junkies are on their way to Manaslu, and their latest dispatch says that they have made it to Arughat today, after battling bad road conditions. Tomorrow they'll begin their trek to the mountain. Reportedly their conditions so far have been light rain with plenty of heat.

The Field Touring Alpine Team is set for a Himalayan climb as well, but they're currently in India and setting their sites on Satopanth, a 7075 meter (23,211 feet) mountain that will serve as a warm-up for an Ama Dablam climb later in the year. The climbers have gathered in hot and humid Delhi, where they now have their permit, and will soon be setting out for the mountain, located in the northern part of India.

I suspect we'll be getting more reports such as these as we get through the weekend. More teams will be getting into place on their respective mountains, and waiting out the weather for their opportunity to begin to climb. Looks like it is going to be an active Fall in the Himalaya.

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Himalaya Fall 2009: And So It Begins...

I just wrote about the 2009 Fall Himalaya Expedition List yesterday, and now we get word today that things are already starting to happen in Nepal. ExWeb is reporting that teams have begun to arrive in Kathmandu, including the Basque team that will soon depart for Tibet, where they'll be attempting the Hornbein couloir along the North Face. They're joined by a Mexican team that has its sights set on Manaslu and two Chilean teams, one already on the trek to that mountain, and another preparing to set out for Dhaulagiri.

Swiss climber Ueli Steck continues his penchant for impressive climbs this fall by making an attempt on the West Pillar of Makalu. Ueli warmed up for this climb by making a solo summit on GII this past summer, and in keeping with that theme, he'll be going solo on Makalu as well. He will be joined by photographer Robert Boesch and mountain guide Andy Waelchli, but neither of those two men will go above base camp. According to Ueli's website, he expects to finish this project by the end of October. If there is a climber out there that can make a bold solo climb like this one, it's probably Ueli.

The Altitude Junkies have an expedition planned for Manaslu, and according to their most recent dispatch, the team should now be in Nepal, and beginning their trek to the mountain today. Expect the usual excellent updates from AJ as the climb progresses.

Finally, here's an interesting climb that is being sponsored by The North Face. It's called the Cho Oyu Trinity project and it will see a team of climbers make an attempt on the 8021 meter Cho Oyu. Following a successful summit, the team hopes to snowboard back down the mountain, before running and mountain biking their way back to Kathmandu, a distance of approximately 275 miles. I guess they were looking for more of a challenge after climbing the sixth highest mountain on Earth.

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Himalaya Triple Header Puts Korean Climber in the Race for First Female on All 8000m Peaks

For months we've been hearing about how Nives Meroi, Gerlinde Kaltenbruner, and Edurne Pasaban were the three women who were gunning to become the first to reach the summit of all 14 8000m peaks. Well now, thanks to a stunning triple header in the Himalaya, there is another woman throwing her hat into the ring to make that claim.

South Korean climber Go Mi-sun along with climbing partner Kim Jae-soo, pulled off a first in the Himalaya this spring season by knocking off three 8000 meter peaks. The pair first took on Makalu, reaching the summit on April 30th, before moving on to Kangchenguna, reaching the summit of that mountain on the 19th of May. Not content with having added two big peaks to their resume, they went on to the summit of Dhaulagiri, finishing their triple header on the 9th of June.

Having completed these three climbs, Go Mi-Sun now has 10 of the 14 8000m peaks under her belt, and has achieved all 10 in just 2 1/2 years. She is also reportedly en route to Pakistan, where she'll attempt another triple header, this time bagging Gasherbrum I and II as well as Nanga Parbet. If successful, she'll have just Annapurna on her list, and she'll be right there with Nives, Gerlinde, and Edurne coming down the stretch.

Pretty impressive climbing to say the least. Having the potential to knock off six 8000 meter peaks in the span of just a few months is amazing. I wish her all the luck in the Karakorum this summer, and of course on Annapurna when she gets the opportunity. Saving that mountain for last may have been a good idea, but it is definitely no walk in the park, and often considered one of the most challenging mountains in the world.

Thanks to Stweart's Climbing Blog for this great story.

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Himalaya Spring 2009 Update: Another Death

I really hate making these posts and I had actually started to believe we were past them for the Spring season, but it seems there is more sad news today, this time from Kathmandu, where Explorer's Web is reporting that Australian climber Mick Parker has been found dead by his landlord. He was 36 years old.

Mick had recently returned from a successful summit on Makalu, earning his 5th 8000 meter peak, adding it to Cho Oyu, Broad Peak, Manaslu and Gasherbrum I. The preliminary autopsy indicates that he died of a combination of exhaustion, the lingering effects of altitude sickness, and alcohol. His body was discovered in his apartment last Thursday.

Add this to the reports of the bodies of Jonathan Copp and Wade Johnson being discovered in the remains of an avalanche on E Gongga in Western Sichuan, China over the weekend, and we've had a particularly tragic and grim end of the season. Overall, it had been a relatively good year in the mountain. As usual, there were a few lives lost, but thankfully there weren't any major accidents that claimed multiple people. Lets hope there aren't any more late season tragedies to add to these

Once again, my condolences to Mick's friends and family, and to the everyone who has lost a loved one in the Himalaya this year.

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Himalaya Spring 2009 Update: Action on the Other Summits!

While all eyes are trained on Everest, and the teams making their push, the rest of the Himalaya has seen plenty of action as well, including summits on other mountains over the weekend.

Lets start on Kangchenjunga, where Edurne Pasaban topped out over the weekend, earning her 12th 8000m peak in the process. That puts her, at least momentarily, in the lead to become the first woman to nab all of those mountains, but Italian Nives Meroi is also on the mountain, and should summit in the next few days as well, giving her her 12th peaks of the 8-thousnders as well. And, lets not forget Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner, who is in C3 on Lhotse, and looking for her 12th in the next few days too. If all goes according to plan, they should all have just two mountains left after the spring season.

On other mountains in the range we're told that high winds have had an impact. On Manaslu for instance, teams were forced to stay in C3, although a weather window is expected to open tomorrow, clearing the way for the summit. The team attempting the West Pillar of Makalu were also forced back due to high winds as well. This was their second attempt, and they'd like to make a third, if time and weather permits. The Spanish team on Cho Oyu is also calling it quits after another failed attempt. They went as high as C2, but high winds prevented them from going higher. They're now going home, a bit disappointed.

The Lhotse-Everest Traverse team, who left C4 last Friday, turned back from the summit and returned to BC, but are preparing to go up again. Apparently weather turned for the worse as the afternoon wore on, and they felt it best to go down and wait for a new opportunity. When they make their next attempt, they'll find fixed ropes almost to the summit, courtesy of the other Kazakh team they were climbing with.

The Polish Team on Nanda Devi continues to work away on the mountain as well. They're into their third week now, and have shared some great photos from BC, ABC, and further up the mountain itself. The team hopes to complete their summit push soon, and the weather is reportedly very good.

Finally, the Ski The Himalaya team has posted an excellent account of their first descent of Baruntse. You may recall that last week I posted that the team had turned back just below the summit and skied down the mountain for the first time. They promised more details and they delivered. Ben Clark's dispatches are always fun to read, and this one doesn't disappoint either. The team is hoping to make one more push to the summit before coming home as well.

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Himalaya Spring 2009 Update: Go Time On Everest and Beyond

Update: I was just finishing up this story when the reports began to trickle in of a massive avalanche on the South Side of Everest, that swept down into the Khumbu Ice Fall. Apparently it was a big one, and there has been at fatality. Two climbers were caught up in the slide, one survived, while another was sent down into a crevasse. Early indications are that it was one of the Sherpas, but who he was climbing with hasn't been revealed yet. We'll have to wait to see if this avalanche will have any effect on the climbing schedules, as from what I can gather, part of the Ice Fall route has been damaged and will need to be rebuilt. Stay tuned!!

Earlier this week we heard that the ropes were fixed to the summit of Everest and that five Sherpas topped out, followed closely by David Tait, pictured here. With that minor detail out of the way, the rest of the teams are now waiting, watching the weather, and scheduling their summit bids. Throughout the Himalaya, on a variety of mountains, other climbers are doing the same.

ExWeb is reporting that there is action all over the region, with Edurne Pasaban is finishing her acclimatization process on Kangchenjunga, just as Nives Meroi and Romano Benet arrive in base camp. The two women are locked in a race to see who will be the first to claim all 14 800 meter peaks.

Over on Makalu, ExWeb says that the Korean team has already summitted along the "normal" route, topping out on the first of May. But the team of lberto Iñurrategi, Mikel Zabalza and Juan Vallejo have set out along the mountains daunting West Pillar, hoping to make an alpine style ascent over the next 4 to 5 days, in one single push, without Sherpa support or established camps. Good luck guys!

Despite the activity on these other big peaks, all eyes are on Everest at the moment, where teams are getting ready to start the summit push beginning tomorrow. Alan Arnette reported on his Everest 2009 page yesterday that on the North Side of the mountain ropes were fixed up to the North Col, but high winds were stalling out efforts to reach the summit. The teams there are waiting just as anxiously as their counterparts to the South. Today there are reports of a large avalanche on the North that swept ropes off the mountain, which will further delay efforts to summit from that side.

But on the South Side, it is definitely time to go, and go they will, starting tomorrow. The First Ascent Team has their plans in place, and Ed Viesturs is happy to share them with us all in the video below. The latest video is a nice recap of the expedition so far, and does a nice job of laying out their attempt at the summit. Ed hasn't been on Everest in a few years, but by all accounts, he hasn't missed a beat and is as strong as ever. He's a great spokesman for the team, and the video is great for those unfamiliar with the climbing tactics.

First Ascent isn't the only team heading up the South Col. The Discovery Channel blog indicates that they are about to begin their push as well. The latest entry is an excellent read, that discusses the climb, the logistics, and weighing the risks. Of course, if Discovery is going up, that means that IMG and Himex are beginning their assaults, since they are the two teams who are being filmed for the next season of Everest: Beyond the Limit, although Billi Bierling indicates that the team is in Gorak Shep resting, as Russell Brice didn't think the weather window looked right just yet.

It should be noted that the climbing schedule seems to be a ahead of what is considered normal at the moment. The weather has been great for most of the season so far, and traditionally on the South Side, teams have until about the first of June to reach the summit. After that, the ice doctors tend to quit maintaining the route through the Ice Fall, and everyone packs up and goes home. On the North Side, teams don't have deal with the Ice Fall so they can go a bit longer into June, but by mid-way through the month, the weather changes, and the monsoon moves in, cutting off the summit until Fall. That said, there are still three weeks of opportunities for teams to climb, and summit reports will be coming in throughout that period. It should be very busy starting tomorrow, with summits beginning on the 12th.

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Himalaya Spring 2009 Update: Manaslu Summits Tomorrow?

It's been another busy couple of days in the Himalaya, where things continue to progress on mountains all over the region.

Probably the biggest news out of the Himalaya is that it looks like the summit of Manaslu could well be a busy place tomorrow, with potentially 20 people topping out. ExWeb is reporting that summit bids were turned back yesterday when climbers reached a 300 foot vertical ice wall at 7100m. The wall is described as very technical and demanding, requiring teams to put up new fixed ropes, which slowed down the progress. It was too late in the day yesterday for that to happen, so the ropes were installed today, and everyone will take their shot at the summit tomorrow. Good luck everyone! Climb safe!

ExWeb is also reporting that Joe Puryear and David Gottlieb have reached the summit of Lunag Ri, and have also safely returned to base cam, completely the first ascent of that mountain. The 6907m mountain was the highest unclimbed peak in the Himalaya that was also permissible to climb. There are other, taller, unclimbed mountains, but no permits are issued for them due to cultural or religious restrictions. Congrats to Joe and David for the for reaching the top and getting back down in one piece.

Switching focus over to the Big Show, Alan Arnette is reporting that weather conditions have changed on Everest, with high winds shifting to the area, blowing things all over the mountain. On his Everest 2009 page, Alan talks to Michael Fagin of EverestWeather.com, who tells us to expect the warmer than normal temperatures on Everest to continue into May, but that it is far too early to say if the mid-month weather window will open up as expected.

The Peak Freaks posted a new blog update, and they weigh in on the windstorm hitting the area. The whole team is currently back in BC, and there is a real fear that the high winds will blow C2 off the mountain. For now though, they'll have to sit and wait and see what happens. They also report that their weather sources are telling them to expect heavy precipitation beginning around the first of May.

Meanwhile, the IMG team, who updated their dispatches this morning, with the news that their Sherpa team is now up at C3, where they are caching supplies, including three more tents. They also note that winds have died down some today, making it a bit more comfortable on the mountain.

Finally, Ben Clark, Josh Butson, and Jonathan Miller, the team that has targeted the 23,390 foot Baruntse in their attempt to Ski The Himalayas reached base camp on Friday. Ben calls it the most spectacular BC he's been in since first coming to the Himalaya seven years earlier, with great views of Lhotse, Everest, and Makalu. Ben also reports that everyone is feeling great, and are ready to go, but that they are taking a little down time to rest and acclimatize before they start scouting the mountain. If all goes well, in a few weeks time, they'll be making their way up to the summit, and then making the first descent by skis as well. Sounds like fun!

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Himalaya Spring 2009 Update: Acclimatization and Camp Building

All across the Himalaya a similar process is now getting underway, as the teams begin focusing on the all important process of building their high camps, and in the process, their own acclimatization as well.

On Everest, the route through the Icefall was established several days back, and teams have wasted no time in crossing through, and building their first camp on the other side. One team, the Lhotse-Everest Traverse squad, is hoping to go as high as Camp 3 already to pack in as much acclimatization time as possible.

Most of the Himex team is off to Lobuje, where they are making an acclimatization climb according to Billi Bierling, a journalist based in Kathmandu, who is part of the team. She's actually in Gorak Shep, the last village before BC, and will be joining the rest of the crew there shortly. Speaking of Himex, the big boss Russell Brice, landed in base camp a few days back, and is sporting some very nice, high class accommodations in effort to remain as comfortable as possible on the mountain.

While some of their climbers are still arriving in BC, the Sherpas for IMG and Peak Freaks have begun moving their way up the mountain, and have already established Camps 1 and 2. The Peak Freaks report that the big logistical meeting was held today, with about 30 team leaders in attendance, and possibly being filmed by Discovery. According to the blog post, safety issues were discussed, as were the workload for fixing the lines, with Himex taking the lead in that area. Will Russell Brice take control and organize those elements the same way he did for so long on the North Side? Sounds like his team is definitely making their presence known.

On the North Side of the mountain, teams are just now making their way into base camp, so they're a bit behind schedule, although they deal with different logistical issues, and the Chinese are handling the fixing of the lines, so there is likely to not be any problems for those few teams that will be climbing from that side of the mountain.

ExWeb is reporting that over on Annapurna the weather conditions are particularly bad, which is making things rough there at the moment. Edurne Pasaban is en route to Kangchenjunga, and reports beautiful but challenging trekking. She says that that the porters are exhausted, and they need to hire a new team, but there aren't many available at the moment. On Manaslu, teams have already gone as high as C3, so the process is proceeding according to plan. There is some talk that the first summit bid could begin there as early as this weekend if the weather holds out.

Finally, Andrew Lock announced on his website a few days back that he was unable to obtain a permit to climb Shisha Pangma, and will now head home instead. He hopes to be back in the Fall to give it another go.

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A View From The Summit of Everest

Check out this amazing panoramic photograph taken from summit of Everest found at Panoramas.dk. The stunning 360º photo rotates around giving us a great view in all directions from the top of the highest mountain on Earth, a view that few of us will ever have the opportunity to see in person.

I sat and watched this panoramic shot rotate around for quite awhile. It was fascinating to me to see just how far your view extends when you're at the top of the world on a clear day, and it was great to look back down the Khumbu Valley and see the ice falls far below. I also had no trouble identifying Everest's next door neighbor, Lhotse, but when I clicked on the "i" icon on the photo, it also identified Changtse, Makalu, and Nuptse as well. Also, you can score bonus points if you can spot the climber in the photo. You have to look pretty close, but he's there.

This is a perfect photo to start off your week with, and something to keep your mind occupied on a Monday morning, when you'd rather be outside yourself. Keep in mind, that at this very moment, there are hundreds of climbers in Kathmandu preparing to take on this mountain, and about six to eight weeks, this is the very view that they'll hopefully have the opportunity to experience.

Thanks to Richard for sending this my way!

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Everest 2009: ExWeb Posts Expedition List

A month from now the already bustling streets of Kathmandu will become even more hectic, as teams of climbers from around the world descend on the city in preparation for their various climbs throughout the Himalaya. Most will be headed to Everest, where they'll be spending several weeks acclimatizing and eventually, if all goes according to plan, making an attempt on the summit.

As is typical for this time of year, Explorers Web has released their definitive list of Everest Expeditions for the Spring of 2009, as well as other peaks in the region that will be seeing some traffic as well. All told, there are more than 40 expeditions on the South Side of the mountain alone, while on the North, 8 optimistic teams hold out hope for access to the mountain from that side. Those plans all hinge on what happens in Tibet this month.

Some of the more interesting stories include David Liaño's attempt at a South-North-South double traverse, as well as American Bill Burke's attempt at a South to North traverse at the age of 67. Of course we also have the Sherpas attempting to stay on the summit for 24 hours straight, as well as a variety of attempts sans supplemental oxygen, and the news that I reported earlier today that Ed Viesturs will be returning for another go, climbing with Dave Hahn and Peter Whittaker.

Everest is never short on stories or drama. The mountain just attracts attention of course, but it isn't the only game in town when it comes to spring climbing in the Himalaya. The expedition list also has the scoop on the teams headed to Kangchenjunga, Annapurna, Makalu, Dhaulagiri, Manaslu, Lhotse, Shisha Pangma, and Cho Oyu. I also personally have a friend headed to Island Peak for a climb of his own, which I'm looking forward to following as well.

Only a few more weeks before things get really interesting. Looks to be another wild year in the Himalaya.

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Himalaya and Karakorum Winter Update: History on Makalu!

Major update today regarding ongoing efforts in the Himalaya and Karakorum season, as Denis and Simone make history on Makalu, claiming the first winter summit on that mountain.

ExWeb, as usual, has all the details, with the news that Italian climber Simone Moro and his Kazakh climbing partner Denis Urubko, reached the summit of Makalu yesterday at roughly 2 PM local time.

The pair set out at 6 AM to make their summit bid, amidst very cold temperatures and high winds. They reached their goal at 7 minutes before 2 PM, finally claiming a winter summit on the last 8000m peak in the Himalaya. As Simone says in his audio dispatch, which you can listen to here, "Now remains only the 5 peaks of Karakorum", making reference to the five 8000m mountains in the Karakorum, that as of yet remain unclimbed in the winter months.

As you can imagine, the boys are ecstatic over their success, saying that the mountain did no want to let them stand on top, "but sorry we did it!" You can checkout some of their photos from the final climb on Simone's blog, including the one that accompanies this post that shows Denis on the summit! Congratulations Denis and Simone! Amazing work!

Speaking of the unclimbed peaks in the Karakorum, the team on Broad Peak continues their waiting game hoping to get their shot at the mountain before their supplies run out. There have been few updates to Don Bowie's blog in the past few days, as they try to patiently wait. They do send their best wishes along to Simone and Denis though, cheering them on from afar. You know it has to be quite challenging for the team to sit and wait for their own opportunity.

Hang in their guys! We're all pulling for you!

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