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Showing posts with label Kangchenjunga. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Kangchenjunga. Show all posts

Wednesday, June 23, 2010

Nat Geo Adventure Interviews Edurne Pasaban

The National Geographic Adventure Blog has another great interview posted today, this time with Edurne Pasaban, who reached the summit of both Annapurna and Shisha Pangma this past spring to become the second woman to climb each of the fourteen 8000 meter peaks. South Korean Oh Eun-Sun was the first woman to do so, topping out on Annapurna three weeks earlier.

In the interview, Edurne, who is from the Basque region of Spain, talks about how she got started climbing (it's a Basque tradition!), the challenges of transitioning to a professional climber, and the downside of spending nine years of your life chasing the 8000 meter peaks. She also talks about her worst experience on the mountain, which was on the descent of K2 where she actually told her team to leave her behind, as well as what it meant to her as a woman to reach her goals.

Perhaps of most interest to those who have followed her exploits is Edurne's take on her sometimes rival Oh Eun-Sun. When Oh summitted Annapurna, and became the first woman on the 14-er list, Edurne actually issued a protest on Oh's summit of Kangchenjunga, saying that several Sherpas that were along on the expedition say that the Korean woman didn't go all the way to the top due to bad weather. In this interview, Edurne acknowledges that Oh was first, but says that she still needs to offer some proof of her summit to put an end to the dispute.

She goes on to say however, that climbing legend Reinhold Messner told her the most important thing is that two women have now climbed all of those 8000 meter peaks, and that they both did it within a month of one another. It truly is a great accomplishment for both of these ladies.

A very nice interview with a great climber.

Thursday, April 29, 2010

NG Adventure Looks At Brewing Miss Oh Controversy


Yesterday I mentioned that Korean climber Oh Eun-Sun had successfully topped out on Annapurna, and in the process had become the first woman to summit all 14 of the 8000 meter peaks. In that same story, I also noted Miss Oh's claim to that title was being disputed and that controversy was already afoot over the whole affair.

The National Geographic Adventure Blog has posted a good article that recaps the story and takes a look at this brewing controversy a bit more closely. It seems that Miss Oh's summit of Kangchenjunga last year is the one that is in dispute, as there are no photos showing the Korean woman at the summit. Instead, the only photographic evidence that is being offered is an image that is well below the top. In her defense, Miss Oh says that weather conditions at the summit made it impossible for her to stay their long enough to take a photo.

The Kangchenjunga climb has especially been called into question by Edurne Pasabán, the talented Spanish climber who needs to just knock off Shisha Pangma to complete her list of 8000 meter peaks, something she expects to do in the next couple of weeks. Edurne says she decided to speak out on the subject after her own climbing record was examined and called into question by South Korean television reporters last week.

As if that wasn't enough to cause a stir, Miss Elizabeth Hawley, who is the definitive expert on all things related to climbing in the Himalaya, has weighted in on the topic as well. She says that there is enough doubt cast on Miss Oh's Kangchenjunga summit to warrant an investigation.

In the end, I suppose the mountaineering community will decide.

Monday, June 22, 2009

Himalaya Triple Header Puts Korean Climber in the Race for First Female on All 8000m Peaks


For months we've been hearing about how Nives Meroi, Gerlinde Kaltenbruner, and Edurne Pasaban were the three women who were gunning to become the first to reach the summit of all 14 8000m peaks. Well now, thanks to a stunning triple header in the Himalaya, there is another woman throwing her hat into the ring to make that claim.

South Korean climber Go Mi-sun along with climbing partner Kim Jae-soo, pulled off a first in the Himalaya this spring season by knocking off three 8000 meter peaks. The pair first took on Makalu, reaching the summit on April 30th, before moving on to Kangchenguna, reaching the summit of that mountain on the 19th of May. Not content with having added two big peaks to their resume, they went on to the summit of Dhaulagiri, finishing their triple header on the 9th of June.

Having completed these three climbs, Go Mi-Sun now has 10 of the 14 8000m peaks under her belt, and has achieved all 10 in just 2 1/2 years. She is also reportedly en route to Pakistan, where she'll attempt another triple header, this time bagging Gasherbrum I and II as well as Nanga Parbet. If successful, she'll have just Annapurna on her list, and she'll be right there with Nives, Gerlinde, and Edurne coming down the stretch.

Pretty impressive climbing to say the least. Having the potential to knock off six 8000 meter peaks in the span of just a few months is amazing. I wish her all the luck in the Karakorum this summer, and of course on Annapurna when she gets the opportunity. Saving that mountain for last may have been a good idea, but it is definitely no walk in the park, and often considered one of the most challenging mountains in the world.

Thanks to Stweart's Climbing Blog for this great story.

Thursday, May 21, 2009

Himalaya Spring 2009 Update: More Summits and the Mountains Claim A Life


Lots more action today away from Everest once again with news on more summits, and the sad tale of another death in the Himalaya.

Lets start with the bad news first. Hungarian climber Levente Szabo lost his life on Manaslu after falling to his death on that mountain. Levente reached as high as 7800m before turning back for Camp 4, but along the way he slipped and fell. His body was found at 6800m where he was buried. My condolences to his friends, family, and climbing team. Two of his Hungarian countrymen did summit Manaslu however, with Zsolt Eross and Daniel Barna reaching the top of the 8156m peak. For Eross, this is his 8th 8000m peak.

On Everest's neighbor Lhotse, there are more summits to report today, with the news that a slew of climbers have gone up the past few days, including Xavi Arias, Domhnall Dochartaigh, Roger Danks and Josette Valloton. Xavi reports that it was extremely cold at the summit, which took it's toll on the climbers.

The Polish Team on Nanda Devi are reporting in today that that two of the climbers, Jarek Woćko and Daniel Cieszyński, have set off for the summit, following a short rest in BC. If the weather holds, it looks like they could top out in the next few days. Meanwhile, their teammates are all over the mountain fixing lines and making sure the camps are ready for their arrival. Great teamwork guys, and good luck on the summit push!

Over on Kangchenjunga, ExWeb is reporting that Edurne Pasaban and Alex Chicon have been successfully evacuated from base camp, and are now back in Kathmandu. They'll return to Spain tomorrow, where they'll be treated for severe frostbite in the Zaragoza hospital, which specializes in mountain medicine. After a similar experience on K2 a few years back, Edurne spent some time in the same hospital, recovering. Get well soon you two!

Finally, yesterday I reported that the Ski The Himalayas Team was packing up and heading home after an aborted summit attempt in the past few days. Two of the team members became ill, and conditions conspired against them to prevent the boys from reaching the summit of the 23,390 foot Baruntse. Ben Clark checks in with CNN to report on the lessons learned from this expedition and you can listen and watch on the video below. I love listening to Ben, both in these dispatches, and on The Rest of Everest, as he is so candid, straight forward, and always positive about his climbs, even when he doesn't achieve the summits. Keep in mind, he, and his companions, Josh Butson and Jon Miller, did complete the first ski descent of the mountain, so they have a lot to be happy about. Nice work guys, and great job knowing when it was time to go back down and head home.

Wednesday, May 20, 2009

Himalaya Spring 2009 Update: Lhotse Summits!


While Everest continues to dominate the headlines, there is, as always, a lot of action to be had elsewhere as well. And if conditions are right on Everest, that means they are probably great on Lhotse too. ExWeb is reporting that there have been a rash of summits on Lhotse, where highlights include Gerlinde Kaltenbrunn claiming her 12th 8000 meter peak. That draws her even with Edurne Pasaban, who summitted, and has struggled, on Kangchenjunga these past few days. More on that shortly. Congrats to Edurne for a job well done.

Congratulations are also in order for Ralf Dujmovvits as well. With his successful Lhotse summit, he now has reached the top of all 14 of the 8000 meter peaks as well, and adds his name to the list that was expanded to include Denis Urubko last week. Awesome news here as well.

Meanwhile, I've been reminded that Edurne, Gerlinde, and Nives Meroi aren't the only girls in town. Polish climber Kinga Baranowska did her nations climbing heritage proud by topping out on Kangchenjunga a few days back as well. She was just a short time behind Edurne and reached the top without supplemental oxygen, claiming the fourth summit by a woman on that mountain. Very well done Kinga! She also dedicated the climb to the memory of Wanda Rutkiewicz, one of the greatest climbers, male or female, ever. Wanda is also from Poland, and lost her life on Kangchenjunga a number of years back.

Staying on Kangchenjunga, Nives Meroi was hoping to add her 12th 8-thousander summit to her resume as well, but turned back when husband Romano Benet took ill. Romano began showing the early signs of HACE and they thought it best to turn back. Nives says that no summit is more important to her than Romano, and they are back in BC at this time. No word if there will be another attempt yet this season.

While Edurne Pasaban may have claimed her summit on that mountain however, it sounds like she payed a healthy price for it. She finally made it back to BC today, even though her summit was three days back, and she is reportedly exhausted and suffering from frostbite in two of her toes and her thumb. She will reportedly be airlifted from BC tomorrow. Keep your fingers crossed that everything comes out okay.

Finally, the Ski the Himalaya team has posted another update on their website with news of a second summit bid by Josh and Ben. Earlier in the week the two men expended a lot of energy getting their third teammate, Jon Miller, of the mountain when he took ill, and it caught up with them a bit, with Josh hitting the wall on the second trip up. Without hesitation, they turned around and went back down, the expedition is over, and they're heading home. While they did not reach the summit on Baruntse, they did make the first ski descnet of that mountain, and I know that they had a blast while they were there, summit or no. And that's what mountaineering is all about. Great job guys!

Monday, May 18, 2009

Himalaya Spring 2009 Update: Action on the Other Summits!


While all eyes are trained on Everest, and the teams making their push, the rest of the Himalaya has seen plenty of action as well, including summits on other mountains over the weekend.

Lets start on Kangchenjunga, where Edurne Pasaban topped out over the weekend, earning her 12th 8000m peak in the process. That puts her, at least momentarily, in the lead to become the first woman to nab all of those mountains, but Italian Nives Meroi is also on the mountain, and should summit in the next few days as well, giving her her 12th peaks of the 8-thousnders as well. And, lets not forget Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner, who is in C3 on Lhotse, and looking for her 12th in the next few days too. If all goes according to plan, they should all have just two mountains left after the spring season.

On other mountains in the range we're told that high winds have had an impact. On Manaslu for instance, teams were forced to stay in C3, although a weather window is expected to open tomorrow, clearing the way for the summit. The team attempting the West Pillar of Makalu were also forced back due to high winds as well. This was their second attempt, and they'd like to make a third, if time and weather permits. The Spanish team on Cho Oyu is also calling it quits after another failed attempt. They went as high as C2, but high winds prevented them from going higher. They're now going home, a bit disappointed.

The Lhotse-Everest Traverse team, who left C4 last Friday, turned back from the summit and returned to BC, but are preparing to go up again. Apparently weather turned for the worse as the afternoon wore on, and they felt it best to go down and wait for a new opportunity. When they make their next attempt, they'll find fixed ropes almost to the summit, courtesy of the other Kazakh team they were climbing with.

The Polish Team on Nanda Devi continues to work away on the mountain as well. They're into their third week now, and have shared some great photos from BC, ABC, and further up the mountain itself. The team hopes to complete their summit push soon, and the weather is reportedly very good.

Finally, the Ski The Himalaya team has posted an excellent account of their first descent of Baruntse. You may recall that last week I posted that the team had turned back just below the summit and skied down the mountain for the first time. They promised more details and they delivered. Ben Clark's dispatches are always fun to read, and this one doesn't disappoint either. The team is hoping to make one more push to the summit before coming home as well.

Friday, May 8, 2009

Himalaya Spring 2009 Update: Baruntse Boys Are in C2


Despite the long update yesterday on everything that is going down in the Himalaya, there is still plenty more to say today, beginning on Baruntse where the Ski The Himalayas Team has moved up to C2 at 20,000 feet, and are beginning the next phase of their climb, making an alpine style first ascent on an unknown route. They don't make any mention of their intended summit day, noting that they don't know how hard or how long the climb will be at this point. Baruntse is a 23,390 foot peak that they intend to make the first descent on skis as well.

Over on Kangchenjunga, Korean climber Oh Eun-sun has claimed the first summit of the season on that mountain, amidst very high winds. Edurne Pasaban has reached C3, where she will wait for two days and pray that the winds die down before making her own summit bid. The Spanish team was said to be concerned for the Koreans due to the conditions, and were standing by to assist if needed. So far, no word of any issues.

Denis Urubko and climbing partner Boris Dedeshko have set their sights on a new route on Cho Oyu, making an alpine style attempt on the South East Ridge. The two very experienced climbers are making a go at the mountain now, but ExWeb reports that they left their sat phone behind, so there will be no word of their progress until they're up and back. Good luck guys!

Of course, Everest remains the focus with summit days just ahead. The mood on the mountain remains a bit muted today thanks to the death of the Sherpa in the Icefall yesterday. Alan Arnette is reporting that some teams are still forging ahead as planned, hoping to summit on the 12th, while others re-evaluating the schedule and watching the weather. It seems like the middle of the month will now be the target date from both the North and South sides of the mountain.

Finally, as further proof that the First Ascent Team are by far the most well covered and closely followed team on the mountain this year, I came across this story over at MacWorld.com, a site that covers Macintosh Computers and other products from Apple. It seems that the team and the production crew following them, have been using MacBook Pro laptops and iPods on the mountain, which has garnered the already over exposed rockstar climbing team even more coverage.

Thursday, May 7, 2009

Himalaya Spring 2009 Update: Go Time On Everest and Beyond


Update: I was just finishing up this story when the reports began to trickle in of a massive avalanche on the South Side of Everest, that swept down into the Khumbu Ice Fall. Apparently it was a big one, and there has been at fatality. Two climbers were caught up in the slide, one survived, while another was sent down into a crevasse. Early indications are that it was one of the Sherpas, but who he was climbing with hasn't been revealed yet. We'll have to wait to see if this avalanche will have any effect on the climbing schedules, as from what I can gather, part of the Ice Fall route has been damaged and will need to be rebuilt. Stay tuned!!

Earlier this week we heard that the ropes were fixed to the summit of Everest and that five Sherpas topped out, followed closely by David Tait, pictured here. With that minor detail out of the way, the rest of the teams are now waiting, watching the weather, and scheduling their summit bids. Throughout the Himalaya, on a variety of mountains, other climbers are doing the same.

ExWeb is reporting that there is action all over the region, with Edurne Pasaban is finishing her acclimatization process on Kangchenjunga, just as Nives Meroi and Romano Benet arrive in base camp. The two women are locked in a race to see who will be the first to claim all 14 800 meter peaks.

Over on Makalu, ExWeb says that the Korean team has already summitted along the "normal" route, topping out on the first of May. But the team of lberto Iñurrategi, Mikel Zabalza and Juan Vallejo have set out along the mountains daunting West Pillar, hoping to make an alpine style ascent over the next 4 to 5 days, in one single push, without Sherpa support or established camps. Good luck guys!

Despite the activity on these other big peaks, all eyes are on Everest at the moment, where teams are getting ready to start the summit push beginning tomorrow. Alan Arnette reported on his Everest 2009 page yesterday that on the North Side of the mountain ropes were fixed up to the North Col, but high winds were stalling out efforts to reach the summit. The teams there are waiting just as anxiously as their counterparts to the South. Today there are reports of a large avalanche on the North that swept ropes off the mountain, which will further delay efforts to summit from that side.

But on the South Side, it is definitely time to go, and go they will, starting tomorrow. The First Ascent Team has their plans in place, and Ed Viesturs is happy to share them with us all in the video below. The latest video is a nice recap of the expedition so far, and does a nice job of laying out their attempt at the summit. Ed hasn't been on Everest in a few years, but by all accounts, he hasn't missed a beat and is as strong as ever. He's a great spokesman for the team, and the video is great for those unfamiliar with the climbing tactics.

First Ascent isn't the only team heading up the South Col. The Discovery Channel blog indicates that they are about to begin their push as well. The latest entry is an excellent read, that discusses the climb, the logistics, and weighing the risks. Of course, if Discovery is going up, that means that IMG and Himex are beginning their assaults, since they are the two teams who are being filmed for the next season of Everest: Beyond the Limit, although Billi Bierling indicates that the team is in Gorak Shep resting, as Russell Brice didn't think the weather window looked right just yet.

It should be noted that the climbing schedule seems to be a ahead of what is considered normal at the moment. The weather has been great for most of the season so far, and traditionally on the South Side, teams have until about the first of June to reach the summit. After that, the ice doctors tend to quit maintaining the route through the Ice Fall, and everyone packs up and goes home. On the North Side, teams don't have deal with the Ice Fall so they can go a bit longer into June, but by mid-way through the month, the weather changes, and the monsoon moves in, cutting off the summit until Fall. That said, there are still three weeks of opportunities for teams to climb, and summit reports will be coming in throughout that period. It should be very busy starting tomorrow, with summits beginning on the 12th.

Thursday, April 30, 2009

Himalaya Spring 2009 Update: News From All Over!

As we sit on the edge of May, you can feel that we're also on the edge of lots of activity in the Himalaya. Teams are moving up and down Everest, making their last acclimatization runs, and the Sherpas are busy working on the final fixed lines, laying the ground work for plenty of action to come in just a few short weeks.

ExWeb starts the updates off today with the news that the Lhotse-Everest Traverse Team are on the move and expect to spend the night in C3 today before carrying the last of their supplies to C4 tomorrow. They'll spend the night there, then descend one final time. From there, they'll make a go at it on the next weather window, with the plan that they'll summit Lhotse, then trek across the ridge to Everest, where they'll top out one final time, before descending back down the mountain. This one should be fun to watch.

On Everest's South Side there is poor weather in the forecast, with snow expected tomorrow, which may strand a few teams in BC before making their next rotation up the mountain. Most are on their way to Camp 3 for the acclimatization process, where they'll spend the night before one final hike back down the South Col. From there, it'll just be a matter of resting up, and watching the weather.

The North Side is facing it's own set of issues, as more teams are arriving on the mountain, but suffering from acclimatization issues of their own. Thanks to the fancy new road that was built to base camp for the Olympic Torch Team last year, teams are arriving faster than ever, but are also finding themselves ill equipped to deal with the altitude and finding themselves out of breath when they do get there. At least one team has gone back down the mountain to regroup already as well.

In other parts of the Himalaya, teams are preparing to make their bids. On Kangchenjunga for instance, Edurne Pasaban has gone up to Camp 3 and cached supplies, while other teams have moved up as well. On Makalu, a large Korean team is building the high camps and fixing the lines, while a lone female team member stays in BC, and awaits her shot at going up. Over on Dhaulagiri there have been rumors of a summit push going on now, but there have been no confirmations of this or word of successful summits just yet, while the word from Cho Oyu is that BC is quiet with relatively few teams there this season.

Finally, our friends on Baruntse, who are attempting to climb a new route, then make the first descent on skis checked in with CNN again yesterday. Check out the video below.

Thursday, April 16, 2009

Himalaya Spring 2009 Update: Acclimatization and Camp Building


All across the Himalaya a similar process is now getting underway, as the teams begin focusing on the all important process of building their high camps, and in the process, their own acclimatization as well.

On Everest, the route through the Icefall was established several days back, and teams have wasted no time in crossing through, and building their first camp on the other side. One team, the Lhotse-Everest Traverse squad, is hoping to go as high as Camp 3 already to pack in as much acclimatization time as possible.

Most of the Himex team is off to Lobuje, where they are making an acclimatization climb according to Billi Bierling, a journalist based in Kathmandu, who is part of the team. She's actually in Gorak Shep, the last village before BC, and will be joining the rest of the crew there shortly. Speaking of Himex, the big boss Russell Brice, landed in base camp a few days back, and is sporting some very nice, high class accommodations in effort to remain as comfortable as possible on the mountain.

While some of their climbers are still arriving in BC, the Sherpas for IMG and Peak Freaks have begun moving their way up the mountain, and have already established Camps 1 and 2. The Peak Freaks report that the big logistical meeting was held today, with about 30 team leaders in attendance, and possibly being filmed by Discovery. According to the blog post, safety issues were discussed, as were the workload for fixing the lines, with Himex taking the lead in that area. Will Russell Brice take control and organize those elements the same way he did for so long on the North Side? Sounds like his team is definitely making their presence known.

On the North Side of the mountain, teams are just now making their way into base camp, so they're a bit behind schedule, although they deal with different logistical issues, and the Chinese are handling the fixing of the lines, so there is likely to not be any problems for those few teams that will be climbing from that side of the mountain.

ExWeb is reporting that over on Annapurna the weather conditions are particularly bad, which is making things rough there at the moment. Edurne Pasaban is en route to Kangchenjunga, and reports beautiful but challenging trekking. She says that that the porters are exhausted, and they need to hire a new team, but there aren't many available at the moment. On Manaslu, teams have already gone as high as C3, so the process is proceeding according to plan. There is some talk that the first summit bid could begin there as early as this weekend if the weather holds out.

Finally, Andrew Lock announced on his website a few days back that he was unable to obtain a permit to climb Shisha Pangma, and will now head home instead. He hopes to be back in the Fall to give it another go.

Friday, March 27, 2009

Himalaya Spring 2009 Update: Kathmandu Crowded,


The word from Kathmandu is that the streets are teeming with visitors as climbers, trekkers, and other tourist pour into the area with the start of the spring season. Journalist Billi Bierling reports that the city has come alive in the past week. She is busy tracking down many of the expeditions who are currently in town so she can report back to Miss Hawley on their intentions. Of course, she's also busily preparing for her own expedition to the mountain, as she'll be tackling the South Side of Everest as part of the HiMex team.

Meanwhile, ExWeb has more news from the Himalaya for us today. They are reporting that Joao Garcia has arrived in base camp on Manaslu and is now settling in on the mountain. His team is the first to get there so far, and Joao reports that a major snow storm is hitting the area at the moment.

Valeri Babanov and Victor Afanasief are en route to Annapurna, but have run into a snag of their own. It seems that about 20 of their 30 porters abandoned ship and returned to Kathmandu, refusing to carry their gear higher than 3600m. The weather has not been great on Annapurna either, with snow and rain falling in the region, at the team believes that the porters didn't expect to work so hard for their pay. With few porters in the area, it seems that Valeri and Victor will have to hire some porters from a Korean team that is also on its way to the mountain. It could be another three days or so before they arrive however.

Finally, Edurne Pasaban is making her way to Kangchenjunga, where she'll make an attempt on one of the three remaining 8000m mountains she has yet to climb. She's locked in a competition between herself, Nives Meroi, and Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner to become the first woman to accomplish that feat. Nives is currently headed for Annapurna while Gerlinde has her sights set on Lhotse this spring. Yesterday ExWeb published a solid interview with Edurne on her expectations Kangchenjunga and going after the goal of grabbing all 14 of the big mountains.

Monday, March 23, 2009

Himalaya Spring 2009 Update:


We're just days away from climbers descending on Kathmandu, and in this eleventh hour they are no doubt hurriedly packing and picking up last minute supplies. Meanwhile, in the Nepal, another ritual of spring seems to be taking place, as the Maoist once again are disrupting travel in the country.

According to ExWeb, who posted their own Himalaya wrap-up today, unrest and general strikes in certain areas of Nepal, from Maoist rebels no less, are already having an impact on the region. It seems Nives Meroi and her husband Romano Benet have been forced to change their plans thanks to the protests. The duo had been planning on heading to Kangchenjunga, one of the three remaining 8000m peaks left for them to conquer, but apparently, Nives and Romano sent their BC team on ahead to begin preparing their campsite, and they were detained by the rebels and turned back. Looking to avoid conflict, the Italian climbers elected to switch mountains and head to Annapurna instead. Nives still needs a summit on Annapurna in her quest to become the first woman to summit all 14 8000m peaks. At the moment they are in Kathmandu, where they report a severe shortage of water and power, but they'll head to the Annapurna region by the end of the week, where they'll await their team and gear.

Also heading to Annapurna is Valeri Bavanov and climbing partner Victor Afanasief. They are also in KTM at the moment, and while they're all set to leave, and expected to be gone by now, they're having problems finding any porters to hire. Apparently a number of porters were expected in the city by now, coming from villages in the countryside, but they've also been delayed by the Maoist strikes. Valeri and Victor feel confident however that they will find the porters they need soon, and will head for the mountain, where they intend to climb the West Face this spring.

It looks like not everyone has given up on the North Side, as ExWeb is also reporting that a combined team of Indian and Tibetan climbers have been issued a permit to scale the mountain from that side. With the borders still closed, it remains to be seen if the Indian climbers will receive access, but perhaps they will get special dispensation due to the nature of their climb. Eight members of the team also intend to ski down from the summit following their successful climb. Considering how quiet the North will be this year, it is going to take a lot of work to fix the lines.

Billi Bierling, who will be climbing Everest with Himex this year, lives and works in Kathmandu, where she reports that there was finally some rain over the weekend, helping to bring down the amount of smog and dust in the air. That should help make it a bit easier for all the travelers who will be headed to the city soon, although if the water shortages are as bad as they seem, anyone heading there soon should be prepared for the worst.

Last week I briefly mentioned Lori Schneider, the woman who suffers with MS, but still has her sights set on an Everest summit this year. If successful, she'll also have bagged all of the Seven Summits as well. Today, Alan Arnette has posted a great interview with this very inspirational climber to his Everest 2009 page. Scroll down further and you'll find a letter to Alan from Ang Tshering Sherpa, founder of Asian Trekking, who has some interesting things to say about what's happening on Everest this spring, including the Eco Everest expedition that will be working hard to clean up the mountain.

Continue scrolling even further on Alan's page, and you'll find that we already know when Summit Day will be this year. According to Scott Parazynski, whose gone into orbit five times on the space shuttle, we can expect to see the first teams on top of Everest on May 14th. Of course, that's just his best guesstimate, and one that he's using on his schedule, but it's the best we've got right now. The fact that it's more than a month and a half away, and there are dozens of factors that will play into which date is actually picked, shouldn't matter at all. ;)

To everyone headed to the Himalaya this week. Have fun, travel safe, and drop by the Rum Doodle for me. :)

Friday, March 20, 2009

Fredrik Ericsson: Skiing the Three Highest Peaks in the World


Both ExWeb and Everest News posted stories on Fredrik Ericsson this week, highlighting the Swedish skiers plans to become the first person to ski down the three highest mountains in the world - Everest, K2, and Kangchenjunga.

Ericsson, along with Italian Michele Fait, will head to K2 this June, with the Karakorum peak expected to be the most challenging of the three. Following a successful summit, the descent will feature five hours of skiing, covering more than 3600 meters, with angles as much as 50º at times, eventually coming to an end in base camp itself. If successful, Fredrik will then turn his attention to the other two mountains on his list.

As one of the premiere high altitude skiers in the world, Ericsson has already conquered Shisha Pangma, Gasherbrum 2, and Dhaulagiri. Last year, he reached as high as 7000m on Kangchenjunga before aborting his attempt on the mountain, and skiing back down from that point. If all goes as planned, he'll give that mountain another try this Fall, before turning his sights on Everest in the Spring of 2010.

Some of the numbers tossed about in these two stories on Fredrik's attempt to ski these mountains are mind boggling. Five hours of skiing in one descent? 50º angles? Scary and fun at the same time. Dangerous of course as well, especially following a long, arduous climb. I'm sure we'll be hearing a lot more about this in the months ahead.

Monday, March 2, 2009

Everest 2009: ExWeb Posts Expedition List


A month from now the already bustling streets of Kathmandu will become even more hectic, as teams of climbers from around the world descend on the city in preparation for their various climbs throughout the Himalaya. Most will be headed to Everest, where they'll be spending several weeks acclimatizing and eventually, if all goes according to plan, making an attempt on the summit.

As is typical for this time of year, Explorers Web has released their definitive list of Everest Expeditions for the Spring of 2009, as well as other peaks in the region that will be seeing some traffic as well. All told, there are more than 40 expeditions on the South Side of the mountain alone, while on the North, 8 optimistic teams hold out hope for access to the mountain from that side. Those plans all hinge on what happens in Tibet this month.

Some of the more interesting stories include David Liaño's attempt at a South-North-South double traverse, as well as American Bill Burke's attempt at a South to North traverse at the age of 67. Of course we also have the Sherpas attempting to stay on the summit for 24 hours straight, as well as a variety of attempts sans supplemental oxygen, and the news that I reported earlier today that Ed Viesturs will be returning for another go, climbing with Dave Hahn and Peter Whittaker.

Everest is never short on stories or drama. The mountain just attracts attention of course, but it isn't the only game in town when it comes to spring climbing in the Himalaya. The expedition list also has the scoop on the teams headed to Kangchenjunga, Annapurna, Makalu, Dhaulagiri, Manaslu, Lhotse, Shisha Pangma, and Cho Oyu. I also personally have a friend headed to Island Peak for a climb of his own, which I'm looking forward to following as well.

Only a few more weeks before things get really interesting. Looks to be another wild year in the Himalaya.

Wednesday, October 29, 2008

Himalaya Update: Alpine Style Summit Attempt on Makalu Begins!


More news from the Himalaya today, courtesy of ExWeb and other sources.

The biggest news is on Makalu where we're told that Steve House, Vince Anderson, and Marko Prezelj are acclimatized, rested, and ready to begin their alpine style assault on the summit. Weather conditions remained poor yesterday, but are expected to improve over the next few days, and the team scheduled to leave BC tomorrow, and begin their single-push attempt on the summit. They'll likely be ready to leave base camp behind, if their story about the amount of trash and refuse their is to be believed.

On Ama Dablam, teams are preparing for their own summit bids, with reports indicating that the trail up to C3 is in adequate condition. Above C2 there is more snow than usual, but the climb is manageable. IMG Sherpas are expected to repair lines up to C2 today, and begin fixing lines above C3 tomorrow. The latest updates indicate that avalanches at C3 have damaged the tents there, but it can be rebuilt fairly easily. The Alpenglow Expedition has joined IMG and the two teams will work jointly on fixing the lines, as they work together on a new route up the mountain.

The latest news from Fredrik Ericsson on Kangchenjunga isn't as promising however, as he reports that he and Jörgen Aamot have returned to BC when conditions on the mountain became too dangerous. It seems that the 50 cm (roughly 20 inches) of new snow made things quite unstable at altitude. The latest dispatch promises more news tomorrow, so hopefully that update will include plans on their next summit attempt. Fredrick and Jörgen are attempting to become the first men to make a complete ski descent of the Kangchenjunga, the third highest mountain on Earth.

Finally, a hearty congratulations to the Amical Team. On October 23rd, the team put nine climbers, including two Sherpas, on the summit of Baruntse in what has been described as "bitterly cold" conditions. The summitters included: Germans Rainer Picher, Thorsten Aurisch, Werner Göring and Eberhard Tenbusch; Austrians Andreas Gschwendtner and Christian Lutz; Ralf Wohlwend from Lichtenstein, and Nepalese Kharma Gelchen Sherpa and Mingma Tenjee Sherpa.

Monday, October 27, 2008

Himalaya Update: Big Adventures Still Underway


ExWeb has a good update today on the situation in the Himalaya, with news from all over the region. While the Fall season is now winding down, there are still some big climbs ongoing.

On Kangchenjunga, Fredrik Eriksson is on his final summit push as he attempts to make the first full ski descent of the mountain. He and his climbing partner Jörgen Aamot are currently stuck in Camp 2 however, as they wait out a storm. They are reporting heavy snowfall and whiteout conditions are preventing them from going any higher for now.

Over on Annapurna, only the American Dare to Dream Team remains on the mountain, still hoping for a crack at the summit. Over the weekend, the team made up of Czechs Martin Minarik and Petr Masek, along with Slovak Dodo Kopold gave up their attempt after getting as high as 7500m on the peak. Reports from Annapurna indicate that the weather is sketchy there as well, and that the upper portions of the mountain remain unstable.

Unstable is the word that comes to mind on Ama Dablam as well, where teams are hoping to scout higher on the mountain before proceeding up. According to IMG, they are hoping to get reports from experienced climbers who have been on the mountain before, to more accurately assess the risks near the summit. Avalanches continue to be the biggest source of concern, as the higher faces of the mountain, which are now mostly clean of snow, and showing exposed blue ice instead.

Meanwhile, on Everest and Makalu teams are hoping to put up new routes. The Korean team is still toiling away on the Southwest Face of Everest, working that new route, while Steve House's Team is in a holding pattern, waiting to continue their attempt on Makalu's new route as well.

The season will begin to wrap up in the next week or two, and the weather windows are closing rapidly. For most of the teams still in the Himalaya, there is probably only one opportunity left for them to bag their respective peaks. If the conditions cooperate, there should be some exciting reports from Nepal soon.

Monday, October 6, 2008

Himalaya Update: Deaths on Cho Oyu


As was predicted at the end of last week, it was a busy weekend in the Himalaya, with summit attempts on several mountains. Unfortunately, it also proved to be a tragic weekend, as two climbers have been confirmed to have died on Cho Oyu according to the latest updates from ExWeb and Everest News.

In separate reports from the Field Touring Alpine Team and the Summit Climb Team over the weekend, it was reported that two climbers, Guy Leveille and Miha Valic, both perished on their descent. The two men were not climbing together, and the accidents were completely independent of one another as well. According to the FTA report, Guy was turned around by his guide about 60 meters below the summit. While the details are still a bit sketchy, it seems that he fell on his way down. As for Miha, there is very little to report either, but the Slovenia media has confirmed that he was indeed the second death on the mountain. These weren't the only incidences on Cho Oyu over the weekend, as there are other reports of problems as well, including a report that a climber needed to be resuscitated using CPR after his collapse too. Despite these accidents, a number of climbers did top out over the weekend, with successful summit teams being reported by all the major guide services on Cho Oyu.

On Manaslu, the reports are much less grim, as teams summitted on that mountain over the weekend as well, including the Altitude Junkies Team and Jagged Globe as well. It is also reported that Edurne Pasaban was amongst those that topped out, giving the Spanish climber her 11th 8000m peak. Rumor has it she'll be moving to Tibet to being preparing for her attempt on Shisha Pangma next.

A few other quick notes from the region. The American Dare To Dream Expedition has turned back on Annapurna IV due to poor weather, and has not begun to move over to Annapurna I where they'll establish camp and begin work on that mountain. On Makalu, Spaniard Jesús Calleja reports that summit attempts are done on that mountain thanks to the heavy snow and abundant avalanches at altitude, and finally Fredrik Ericsson and his crew have reached base camp on Kangchenjunga. He and the team hope to be the first to make a complete ski descent of that mountain.

Monday, September 29, 2008

Himalaya Update: Bad Weather Continues


Now that the Free Dream Team has officially given up on Trango Towers, the climbing season in the Karakorum is officially over for another year. But teams in the Himalaya are hoping to get their chance on the mountain of their choice soon, although the weather in that region has not been cooperative yet.

According to the latest update from ExWeb, the monsoon refuses to give up it's hold on the HImalaya, and it's making life difficult all over Nepal and Tibet. There are even some indications that a few teams have already given up and are heading home.

On Manaslu, there are three new teams in camp according to Edurne Pasaban, but BC isn't becoming too crowded, as other teams will soon be departing. She notes that some climbers have been there since August 20th, and still haven't had a chance at the summit, so they've elected to go home instead. Amongst the newcomers are Nives Meroi and husband Romano Benet, who are hoping to add another 8000m peak to their resume. An American team headed up by Tom McMillan has also hit base camp. They had originally intended to climb Cho Oyu, but due to the Chinese restrictions on that mountain, they were forced to make a quick change of plans.

Speaking of Cho Oyu, there are a few teams on that mountain who are preparing to make their summit bids. The Field Touring Team has reportedly finished up their acclimatization process and are now resting in ABC before making the first attempt on the top this season. Reportedly the large team of chinese climbers that are on the Cho Oyu have been fixing the lines, and with that work done, other teams will soon get their shot on the summit as well. All of these pushes are labeled as "weather permitting" however, as conditions are not good here either.

Fredrik Ericsson is also making dispatches for his expedition on Kangchenjunga as well, and from the sounds of things, he can't wait to get to the mountain. He first noted that life in Kathmandu was a bit too hectic for him, being use to a more serene and quiet life in Northern Sweden, and now that the team is trekking to the mountain, he's not finding the rainforest to be that much more comfortable. I'm sure the colder, and snowier, regions higher on the mountain will be more to his liking.

On Baruntse a similar story is being told, as the Alpine Ascents Team waits out the weather as well. The forecast has a weather window opening today, and if that proved to be true, the team will be making their way up as a write this. With all of the snow on the mountain of late though, they are a bit wary of the conditions. The Adventure Consultants Team is in C2 on Baruntse as well, and the have decided to wait an extra day to let the conditions settle, even if the improved weather hits as expected.

Finally, sad news from Ambulapcha La, where two Sherpas have fallen while climbing the mountain. One died in the fall while the other was rescued, but now has to be evacuated from BC. Bad weather there is preventing that from happening at the moment. Everyone has their fingers crossed that the weather will improve there soon as well.

Friday, September 12, 2008

Fall 08 Himalaya Expedition List


ExWeb has done a great job, as usual, listing off the pending expeditions for the Fall 2008 Himalaya season. As is typical for the Fall, there are fewer teams on the mountains, which is often part of the appeal. Many climbers by-pass the Spring Season to avoid the crowds and to soak in the solitude.

The list has expeditions for all the usual suspects, including Everest, Annapurna, Kangchenjunga, and more. It seems that the bulk of the climbers are setting their sites on Cho Oyu and Manaslu this Fall, with more teams listed for those two mountains than any other.

While all of the climbs will be of interest, there are a few that stand out in my mind. For instance, there is a Korean team on Everest's South West Face, led by Park Young-seok, who has already topped out on all the 8-thousanders. Also catching my eye was the fact that Nives Meroi, along with husband Romano Benet, has returned to the Himalaya. They're back to climb Manaslu, as Nives works ever closer to her goal of becoming the first woman to claim all the 8000m peaks.

ExWeb also makes a note about Tibet slowly opening back up for visitors. It appears that a limited number of permits are available and a few teams are being allowed in, under a series of restrictions. I've heard through other sources, that all teams coming and going through Tibet are having their backgrounds checked before visas are issued, and that they are being throughly searched upon their arrival at the border.

Many teams are either in Kathmandu already, en route to their mountains, or already in BC. Looks like there should be plenty of news from the area in the next few months, and some great climbs to follow.

Friday, January 4, 2008

The Ten Deadliest Mountains In The World


Here's a late entry in all those year end top ten lists. It's the Ten Deadliest Mountains in the World according to Men's Vogue. (Yeah! Who knew?!?)

The site has far too much advertising, and the pages are cluttered with all kinds of crap, plus the the information on each peak is spread out over multiple pages. All that said, the article does have some great photos, and there is a nice profile of each mountain to give you a little more background on them. I generally don't like to post the entire list in my blog post, but I'm going to make an exception so you can jump directly to a mountain that may interest you, and cut through some of the extraneous stuff:

1. Annapurna
2. Nanga Parbat
3. Siula Grande
4. K2
5. Kangchenjunga
6. The Matterhorn
7. Everest
8. Mt. Washington
9. Denali
10. Mt. Fuji

Pretty interesting list. Some of them are fairly obvious like Annapurna and K2, but I had no idea on Mt. Washington. Very interesting. All in all, not a bad little article, even if it is stuffed with some superfluous stuff.

Thanks to The Goat for the link to this one.

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