In Rio Branco it is obvious where to take a bus. From what I remember there are four buses per day to Brasiléia (paved road). I took the 8 am one, it arrives about 12 noon.
In Brasiléia you need to get your Brazil exit stamp! The office to do this is on the road just before the bus station. You could ask the driver to drop you there; get your stamp, and then walk to the bus station (about 15 minutes). I found it more convenient to just stay on the bus until the bus station in Brasiléia, leave my big backpack there with the staff (I always wrap it in a potato bag; it was untouched when I came back; obviously I had taken all my valuables with me), then walk to the customs office and back. Just ask locals where it is. It went quickly and smoothly.
The bus from Brasiléia to Assis Brasil (paved road) leaves from that same bus station at 4 pm (at least in 2006 it did; and it was one hour late). I can't remember exactly how long it took, I believe another 4 hours. So bring some food.
So this leaves you with some time in Brasiléia. Just for the fun of it I took a taxi into Bolivia, to Cobija (twin town with Brasiléia) and had an icecream there. You don't need Bolivia entry / exit stamps if you're not staying there overnight. Neither town seemed to have much of interest to see and the atmoshere did not appeal to me much, a bit grim.
In Assis Brasil I stayed at Pousada Renascer, it was recommended to me by a Brasilian guy who himself stayed at the cheaper hotel on the main square. I liked Renascer. It's run by a super friendly family who speak Portuguese and Spanish (which is quite rare, even in the border region!) and they had an amazing breakfast. The room was also OK and affordable (I think about 15 or 20 USD with private bathroom).
Assis Brasil is tiny and friendly. I had some nice chats with policemen and other locals. There is a grocery store.
In the morning I took a mototaxi to Iñapari, it took only 5 minutes across the new bridge (paved roads). You could also walk if you wanted to, they say it's 2 kilometers.
Iñapari is Peru, instantly. Culturally (not as outgoing and sunny as the Brasilian people), music-wise, food-wise, language-wise, smells-wise (the food, dirt in the streets, and unwashed people...). I was surprised that the border was apparently such a strict distinction, with completely different peoples on either side.
You can exchange cash there at various shops and the rates seemed fair; I later learned in Puerto Maldonado that the rates were the same there. And I don't think I was cheated with any fake money or counting scams either.
Iñapari was also tiny and seemed friendly enough.
In Iñapari you need to get your Peru entry stamp! This may take a while. In my case it took about two hours waiting at the customs office, which should have been open, but the guy was out taking his daughter somewhere or something, and not apologetic when he came back. I believe Colebozbourne (other posts above) once had to wait there an entire day and night to get his stamp!
All the while, as you wait for the stamp, some taxi driver will harrass you and get you to use his taxi. And make other passengers wait, even if you tell him to just leave without you, and you'll take another taxi. It's a bit embarassing when you finally get in and the other passengers have been waiting along with you...
There are only 'taxis colectivos' (shared taxis) from Iñapari to Puerto Maldonado, no buses. It takes about 5 hours over an unpaved road (!) if you don't get stuck. I paid 40 Soles one-way. We came across 3 other cars / trucks that were stuck in the mud, but we did not get stuck. Lots of people were crammed into the taxi along the way. You can ask for toilet stops (dirty toilets / holes only), and you can buy snacks alog the way (people selling stuff at the car window: banana crisps, carrots etc) but it's wise to have some food and water on you, and toilet paper.
In Puerto Maldonado the taxi colectivo should bring you to your hotel of choice.
Halfway to Puerto Maldonado you'll come across a medium sized town that might be worth a visit.
In Puerto Maldonado I stayed at Royal Hotel. It has some very dark and depressing rooms (corridor overlooking only the courtyard), and some quite nice ones in a charming tacky way (corridor parallel to the street). They have talking parrots. The key system did not seem very safe; they take your key at reception when you go out; hang it up, and often leave it unattended. So bring it with you.
I heard Hotel Bahia is very nice there but I did not feel like moving.
In Puerto Maldonado you could:
. climb the watchtower
. go to the snake sanctuary near the airport
. go to the butterfly + Peru jungle museum near the airport (I don't know the official names)
. visit El Jaguar wild animal refuge (orphaned, injured or abused animals: jaguars, topi, crocodiles, monkeys, snakes etc.) It's halfway between the centre and the airport, ask a mototaxi to take you there. The owner will probably ask you to come and do volunteer work. :-)
. compose your own pizza at the pizza restaurant on Plaza de Armas. They also have a bigger, nicer room in the back with more Peruvians (rather than tourists).
. book a tour to Tambopata nature reserve (jungle). I was very happy with Inotawa. Great lodge, nice food, good staff, nice boat trips and walks.
From Puerto Maldonado I flew to Cusco using Aerocondor (prices $49-149 one way, I paid $69). Apparently the road is really bad or impassable during the rainy season. You could try to hitch a ride with trucks but it may take 60 hours or even more if you get stuck. The flight was 30 minutes and comfortable.
Hope this helps. Feel free to ask more questions. Find pictures and my itinerary on my website.
Cécile
Edited by: Cecilia
(Original post at: http://www.lonelyplanet.com/ thorntree/thread.jspa? threadID=1519264 &tstart=250 )
Written by 2Machupicchu
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